Whelping Box Plans and Instructions

After posting photos of the whelping box I built on Facebook, I received requests for the plans I used.  I pretty much came up with the plan by looking at many many other whelping boxes and picking and choosing features I liked.  Then I incorporated my favorite features into this whelping box.  My goal was minimal sanding and sawing and production time.  I also wanted to be able to easily take it apart and store it in between litters.

Don’t you find it annoying when you find a recipe on Pinterest and then have to scroll through all kinds of  unrelated text to finally find the recipe?  I do, so I am going to get right to the point.  Here is the “recipe” aka shopping list of materials, etc.  Instructions and diagrams are below or if you prefer:  Click here for printable pdf of Whelping Box plans

These instructions are for a 4′ x 6′ x 2′ tall whelping box.  I purchased most of my materials at Menards. They have many sizes of wood in this section so if you only need a 4′ x 4′ x 18″ box, for instance, purchase your side panels accordingly. The wood is in a craft wood section.

1. SAND BOARDS
The boards did need some sanding.  I went over rough spots with 150 Grit sandpaper and then lightly sanded all of the wood with 220 Grit sandpaper.

2. SEAL
Once sanded, I applied 3 coats of MinWax Polycrylic sealer to all sides.

3. SAW
Cut the 2″ x 2″ pine board into four 2′ long pieces with a miter saw.  Cut the 1/2″ x 3″ x 4′ Aspen into four 1 foot pieces.  Draw an 18″ wide by 12″ high (or whatever size opening is appropriate for your size dog.  Mine is for a 48 pound Bernedoodle.) in the center of 1 of the 4′ side panels.  Using a Jigsaw, cut along the lines you draw. Be sure to cut the door all in one piece and you will need to slightly round the corners in order to make the turn with the saw.  Sand all freshly cut edges on the door and opening well and then re-coat with sealer.

4. ATTACH CORNERS
Attach one 2″ x 2″ X 2′  piece to the inside of each end of the 6′ side panels by drilling counter sink holes from the outside of the panel through and into the 2″ x 2″ corner posts.  Use three #12  flat head wood screws 1 1/4′ long equally spaced top to bottom to secure the side panel to the corner brace.  Once the corners are attached to the 6′ sides, slide one of the 4′ sides in behind the 2′ x 2′ and butt tight to side. Drill three equally spaced holes from the inside of the 4′ panel out into the corner post. Use the three #12 Wood screws to secure the panel to the corner post.  Repeat with other four corners.

5. ATTACH DOOR SLIDES
Place 1 foot aspen piece on the edge of the door opening, making sure you overlap the end panel and the door opening 1″ each as shown in the photo. Using the #10 Counter sink drill bit, drill 3 holes through the slide and into the end panel.  repeat on inside of end panel being careful not to drill in the exact same spot as your previous 3 screws.  I used a left over kitchen cabinet handle for a door pull.

6. SLIDING DOOR TRICKS
Use an old candle or wax melt and rub along the door and opening edges and on the inside of the slides.  This makes the door slide in and out smoothly.  I also added s little L shape bracket in the top edge of the side panel to hang the door on when not in use.

7. PIG RAIL
Cut the 10 ‘  PVC pipes into four 20” pieces, six 16” pieces, two 8” pieces, eight 3” pieces and six 2” pieces.  put the 3 way corner pieces in the corners.  place 3″  cut pieces in the downward facing corner openings and in 2 of the T fittings.  Insert the 2″ pieces in the rest of the T shape fittings in the opening the would be the downward part of the T.  These pieces will brace against the sides for a tight fit.  Starting at the front, place a 20″ cut pvc piece into each corner and connect in the middle with one of the T connectors with the 2″ inserted piece against the front side wall. Repeat to create an identical PVC rail in the back of the box.  From the front corners, place a 16″ piece of pvc inside the remaining opening in the front corner.  Next use a T connector with a 2’ side wall brace.  Connect another 16″ into the other side of the T.  Connect a T with a 3″ leg piece onto the end of the open 16″ piece.  Connect another 16″ piece, connect a T that has a 2″ sidewall brace piece, connect the 8″ PVC piece and insert the other end of the 8″ piece into the remaining opening in the back corner piece.  Repeat these steps on the other 6 foot side.  The fittings are tight so you can adjust the overall fit by tapping fittings with a hammer if the pig rail fits too tight and bows.  See labeled photo below for visual of Pig Rail construction.

8. FLOOR
The floor needs to be soft, so I put an old 5 x 7 rug under the box.  Then I purchased a 6′ x 9′ piece of linoleum from Menards ($24.99) for a clean able water proof layer.  I cut the linoleum in half to 4.5′ x 6′ and placed it on top of the rug then placed the whelping box on top and inserted the pig rail back inside.  Then I purchased washable reusable whelping pads 48″ x 65″ from Amazon over top of all of that.